We depart River Dunes Marina at 9 AM on Monday morning.  The south wind is on our bow as we enter the Neuse River and within minutes, the foredeck is awash in seawater.  In hindsight, yesterday’s boat wash is an exercise in futility.  Our course today takes us through Hobucken Cut, across the Pamlico River and into the Pungo River.  The small town of Belhaven passes to port as we follow the Pungo River to the entrance of the Alligator – Pungo Canal.   With 36 miles under our keel for the day, the anchor is down near the entrance of the Canal.  The wind is still blowing 15 to 20 knots from the south, making for a bouncy ride at anchor.  At dusk, the wind subsides.  We are in store for a quiet night on the hook. 

With great expectations for a 60 mile day on Tuesday, the anchor is up before sunrise in the Pungo River.  The first order of business is the Alligator River – Pungo River Canal, a distance of 18 miles.  As we enter the Alligator River, storm clouds begin to gather on the southwest horizon.  Thunderstorms are in the forecast for today.  Rain begins to fall as we approach the Alligator River swing bridge at midday.  Instead of pressing on, we decide instead to call it a day after 36 miles, securing an overnight slip at the Alligator River Marina.  With high humidity, intermittent rain showers and nearby salt marshes, the mosquitos stage an assault on Cutter Loose and her crew.  We retreat below to the air conditioned comfort of the cabin where we pass the afternoon and early evening playing dominoes and dining with buddy boats Island Spirit and Catspaw.

Transiting the Atlantic Intracoastal Bridge

On Wednesday morning, Cutter Loose is underway at 6 AM.  The mosquitos have been patiently waiting for us all night.  As we untie our dock lines and ease away from our slip, they treat themselves to an early morning breakfast.  Instead of returning to Norfolk via the Dismal Swamp Route, we decide instead to follow the Virginia Cut.  While the distance is about the same, the Virginia Cut provides deeper water, one less lock and a wider variety of anchorage possibilities.  The 15 mile section of the ICW that crosses the shallow water of Albemarle Sound can be rough and challenging in windy weather.  But today, wind and seas are benign.  With Albermarle Sound on our stern, we pass under the Coinjock Bridge, leaving North Carolina and entering Virginia at 1 PM. 

Fiery sunset at Great Bridge Lock

Our destination for today is Great Bridge lock, a journey of 52 miles.  En route, we manage to make the 3 PM opening of North Landing Bridge, which sets the stage for the 4 PM opening of the Centerville Turnpike Bridge.  While circling for the 5 PM opening of the Atlantic Intracoastal Bridge, we are besieged by intense lightning, thunder and rain, but thankfully, no wind.   By 5:15 PM, Cutter Loose is through the bridge and docked along the southwest wall of the Great Bridge Canal where we will spend the night.  Within easy walking distance of this location in the City of Chesapeake are restaurants, shops and a grocery store.  We enjoy dinner ashore at a Mexican restaurant with our buddy boats.  When we return to the boat after dinner, we are treated to another gorgeous sunset…the perfect ending to a long day on the water.

Overnight tie with Great Bridge Lock in the distance

The 9 AM opening of the Great Bridge Lock is our first accomplishment on Thursday.  Unlike the locks on the Dismal Swamp ICW route, this lockage lifts Cutter Loose just a few feet into the Elizabeth River.  This 20 minute procedure is fast and efficient.  At this location, we are just 10 miles from Portsmouth, VA, mile zero of the ICW.  By 11:30 AM, Cutter Loose is docked in the City of Portsmouth’s South Ferry Basin, having transited the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway from mile zero to  mile 1193 in Marathon Key, FL and back.

Buddy boats at Portsmouth ferry basin

The continuation of our journey north into the Chesapeake Bay is delayed for several days by persistent 20 knot northerly winds.  Rather than bash our way into wind-driven waves on the Bay, we decide instead to remain docked in the ferry basin, availing ourselves to the urban amenities of Portsmouth and Norfolk, including dinner and a movie at the historic Commodore Theater, the Nauticus Museum, the General MacArthur Museum in Norfolk, scrumptious morning pastries at the Artistic Bread Company, strolls through the Olde Towne Historic District and Sunday morning services at First Pres.   Click on the pictures for an enlarged view.

Battleship Wisconsin at Nauticus

MacArthur Museum in Norfolk

Artisan Breads in Portsmouth

Portsmouth's Olde Towne Historic District

Winds are expected to shift to the east overnight, facilitating a Monday morning return to our home waters of the Chesapeake Bay.

Today we take a break from the ICW.  It is a clear day with wind out of the south at less than 10 knots.  The anchor is up in Town Creek in time to make the 9:30 AM opening of the Beaufort bascule bridge.  Cutter Loose is headed to sea through the Beaufort Inlet.  Our destination today is the bight at Cape Lookout National Seashore, just 11 miles from Beaufort harbor. 

Cape Lookout is the southernmost point of Core Bank, which is not a financial institution but rather a natural barrier island.  Our old nemesis, Hurricane Irene, made landfall here on August 27, 2011.  The Cape is accessible only by boat, and today there are dozens of small fishing boats traversing the entrance to the bight at trolling speed.  The bight inside the “hook” of the Cape is nearly a mile in diameter.  Cutter Loose is one of a dozen boats anchored in this pristine setting, surrounded by an enormous circular beach. 

On the dunes at Cape Lookout

Surrounded by windswept dunes, the most prominent feature of Cape Lookout is the 210 foot lighthouse.  A tour of the visitor center explains the constant reshaping of this fragile landscape.  Beaches on the interior side of the Cape are continually receding while sand is constantly being deposited on the Atlantic beaches.  The beaches and dunes here remind us of what a barrier island should be…a place that is left almost entirely to nature for the purpose of protecting the mainland.

On the Atlantic beach, surf casters are watching and waiting patiently for a hit.  A handful of adventurous beachgoers are preparing to spend the night on the beach in tents.  We stroll along the beach in search of shells until late afternoon when we board the dinghy, return to Cutter Loose and settle in for a tranquil evening on the hook. 

The sunrise on Sunday morning is a reminder of why we choose to live aboard a boat.  The anchor is up at 8 AM.  Cutter Loose retraces her steps to the Beaufort Inlet and under the Morehead City Bridge where we rejoin the ICW.  Our destination today is River Dunes Marina near Oriental, NC, some 36 miles to the north.  Our course takes us through Adams Creek and into the open expanse of the Neuse River.

By 3 PM, Cutter Loose is refueled and in her slip at River Dunes.  We take advantage of this opportunity to wash the boat and tackle laundry.  This will be a one night stay.  Tomorrow we will resume our journey north on the ICW.

We are devastated by news of the passing of our dear friend Tom from Colorado.  Tom has been a best friend and bicycling companion for over a decade.   Today, he was fatally injured by a collision with an automobile while riding his bicycle in Illinois.  We are in a state of shock, disbelief and despair.

I have bicycled and skied literally thousands of miles with Tom…time together when we shared our innermost thoughts and feelings. Without a doubt, Tom was the most considerate and compassionate person that I have ever known…an extraordinary human being in every way.

During our bicycle ride across Missouri, Tom and I met three cyclists that were completing the 3200 mile Lewis and Clark trail from St. Louis to Fort Clatsop in the town of Astoria on the coast of Oregon.  Tom was fascinated with the prospect of this self-supported journey through history.  We agreed to complete this trip in annual increments as a retirement project.  Thus far, we managed to complete the segment of the Trail from St. Louis to Council Bluffs, Iowa. 

I can scarcely believe that our journey has come to a premature end.  Thanks for the memories, my friend.  It hurts knowing that you are gone.  We will surely miss you.

In Memoriam

Dusk at Dutchmans Creek

On Tuesday, Cutter Loose is underway from Barefoot Landing Marina in Myrtle Beach, SC at 9 AM.  Our destination today is Dutchman Creek near Southport, NC, a journey of 33 miles.  Once past the Barefoot Landing Bridge, we enter the “Rockpile”, a section of the waterway that is so narrow that only one vessel can pass through this segment at any one time.  Traffic on the ICW is light this morning, so there is no need to share the channel with other vessels.  In North Myrtle Beach, the waterway is lined with small lot subdivisions and condos. The dredged sections of ICW is interrupted only by various inlets to the Atlantic Ocean, including the Little River Inlet (aka “Calabash Crossroads”) where casino tour boats dock alongside the ICW, shuttling their guests through the inlet and into the Ocean.  Once in the ocean, gambling becomes legal. These tour boats consume the entire width of the ICW, leaving little space for pleasure boats.  Thankfully, we transit Calabash Crossroads free of casino boat traffic.  Just north of the New River Inlet, we leave South Carolina and enter North Carolina.

After passing Shallotte Inlet and Lockwoods Folly Inlet, we arrive at Dutchman’s Creek in time for low tide.  In one sense, this is beneficial because the water depth will never become lower than it is at the time of anchoring.  But this creek is shallower than expected.  We are surrounded by salt marshes and anchored with less than a foot of water under the keel of Cutter Loose at dead low tide.  On the horizon, the Cape Fear Lighthouse illuminates the evening sky…a precursor to our forthcoming tour of the Cape Fear River in the morning.

Storm clouds building over Wrightsville Beach

Wednesday morning brings clear skies as we enter the Cape Fear River at Southport.  This River is a major inlet to the Atlantic Ocean, providing big ship access to the Port of Wilmington about 11 miles upstream.  The ICW follows the Cape Fear River for 12 miles before diverting to Snow’s Cut, a narrow dredged channel that leads to the resort community of Carolina Beach.  Thankfully, we are riding a three knot favorable current as we travel north along the Cape Fear River.  Other than a few ferries crisscrossing the River, the channel is free of big ship traffic this morning.  Once north of Carolina Beach, it is a short trip past Masonboro Inlet to Wrightsville Beach, our destination for today.  At noon, Cutter Loose is anchored just off of Motts Channel near the bridge that connects the mainland to Wrightsville Beach.  Cumulus cloud cover is building to the west, a precursor of an approaching cold front.  The afternoon offers an opportunity for a long stroll along the beach and a stop at the local coffee shop for refreshment.  Just as dinner is emerging from the galley, the rain and thunder begin.  Thankfully, there is very little wind associated with this pre-frontal precipitation.  Cutter Loose is the beneficiary of another free boat wash.

Figure Eight Island Bridge

At 6:20 AM on Thursday, the anchor is up in Wrightsville Beach with an early start to the day.  We achieve our goal of reaching the Wrightsville Beach Bridge well before 7 AM.  Prior to 7 AM, the bridge opens on demand.  After 7 AM, the bridge opens only on the hour.  This is the first of four bridges with restricted openings that we will transit today.  Our destination is the town of Swansboro, some 45 miles to the north.  We pass through a ten mile section of Marine Corps Base Camp LeJeune, where marine units practice with an assortment of weapons.  At certain times, the ICW is closed during military operations.  But today, it is a peaceful journey through this remote coastal area.  Cutter Loose is anchored in Swansboro harbor at 3:30 PM.

Swansboro waterfront

Beaufort waterfront

On Friday, it is a short 26 mile trip to Beaufort, NC.  Our course takes us past Atlantic Beach and Morehead City and into Beaufort Inlet before turning sharply to the north at Fort Macon to enter the channel into downtown Beaufort.  A music festival is underway when we arrive.  Most of the marinas are full and Taylor Creek is filled with moored and anchored pleasure boats.  We decide to continue north under the Beaufort Channel Bridge to Town Creek.  Cutter Loose is anchored at the intersection of Town Creek and Gallant Channel.  Later in the afternoon, we are met by local residents and friends Greg and Kate for an evening of dining and an open air concert on the waterfront.

Pat and Kate with Doodles

Catch of the day (dolphin)

Beaufort Music Festival

Our Saturday morning departure from Charleston Maritime Center is timed at low slack tide.  Our course takes us east through the ship’s channel towards the inlet, then north to the Ben Sawyer bridge where Cutter Loose is one of six sailboats waiting for the scheduled hourly opening.  The bridge tender is in a feisty mood today.  She admonishes the waiting boats to move closer to the bridge so as to minimize the period of time that the bridge remains open.  The flood tide is pushing the boats towards the bridge.  Everybody is doing their best to hold their position until the opening.  Nobody is particularly anxious to move closer to the bridge.  Being swept into the bridge by the current is not a pleasant thought.  A Mexican standoff ensues. The gates are down.  Traffic is stopped. The bridge tender refuses to open the bridge until the boats move closer.  The skippers refuse to move their vessels closer to the bridge until it is open.  Unpleasant words are exchanged over the VHF radio.  Finally, the bridge tender relents and the bridge opens. 

At the Isle of Palms, the ICW is congested with weekend boaters. The tide has begun to rise, but water depths are abnormally low today due to the gravitational pull of the full moon, a condition known as a spring tide.  At one point, Cutter Loose becomes grounded momentarily in the middle of the channel.  To make matters worse, the greenhead flies have decided to join us in the cockpit for today’s sail. 

Supermoon on the rise at Awendaw Creek

Our destination today is an overnight anchorage at Awendah Creek, 23 miles north of Charleston.  The wind has been calm all day.  But as we prepare to drop the hook, the wind is gusting to 20 knots.  The   salt marshes protect Cutter Loose from waves, but not from the wind.  A cold front will approach the area overnight, bringing showers and thunderstorms.  At dusk, the “supermoon” appears in the eastern sky while lightning is visible to the northwest.  Lightning, thunder and rain remain with us into the early morning hours.  Fortunately, the humidity falls and the wind subsides with the passing of the thunder squalls. 

Cutter Loose at anchor in Georgetown harbor

By Sunday at dawn, the cold front has passed to the south and sunny skies return to the South Carolina coast.  Our destination today is Georgetown, just 23 miles to the north.  As we rejoin the ICW, shrimpers are visible in the ocean just above the marsh grasses.  These waters are part of the Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge.  As if on cue, a lone alligator crosses the bow of Cutter Loose and swims to shore.  The smokestacks of Georgetown are visible on the horizon as Cutter Loose enters Winyah Bay, an inlet to the Atlantic Ocean.  Cutter Loose is anchored in Georgetown harbor.  Most of the shops and restaurants in town are closed today.  We manage to find a local restaurant to host our Sunday evening dinner with Catspaw and Island Spirit.

Socastee swing bridge

Monday morning is overcast with cooler temperatures and low humidity.  Our destination today is  Barefoot Landing Marina in Myrtle Beach, about 35 miles to the north.  The ICW follows the Waccamaw River valley for most of this journey.  The brown/black water of the Waccamaw is in contrast to the gin-clear water of the Bahamas.  The Waccamaw meanders through the pristine Waccamaw River National Wildlife Refuge, where the banks are lined with cypress trees draped in Spanish moss that support the nests of eagles and osprey.    The sound of birds makes this passage feel as if we are sailing through a jungle.  The landscape changes dramatically about 20 miles south of Myrtle Beach as the banks of the ICW become developed with large homes, condos and golf courses.  Barefoot Landing Marina is part of a shopping mall that features outlet stores and restaurants, an unusual diversion along the waterway.  We  enjoy a stroll through this urban setting before sailing north in the morning.

Early on Thursday morning, the heat and humidity in Charleston are already on the rise.  The anchor is up in the Ashley River and Cutter Loose is bound for her slip at the Charleston Maritime Center.  Our 11:30 arrival is timed to coincide with slack tide in the Cooper River.  But even at slack tide, there is still considerable tidal current running in the marina basin.  After all, the Charleston inlet to the Atlantic Ocean is just a few miles away.  Maneuvering Cutter Loose to the fuel dock, then into her slip is a challenge in the tight quarters of the marina basin.  The 2 knots of current in the marina is no match for our faithful friend, the bow thruster.  We selected this marina because it is within easy walking distance of the Harris Teeter grocery store, East Bay Street eateries and the historic district.   

Thursday afternoon is devoted to the care and upkeep of Cutter Loose.  It has been months since she has had a proper bath.  Today’s task is to wash the accumulation of salt from the deck, canvas and lines.  There is something therapeutic about attacking a salty boat with a hose, a bucket of sudsy water and a sponge.  On Thursday evening, buddy boat Island Spirit generously hosts a lasagna dinner for the four Island Packets docked at the Maritime Center. 

A stop at Caviar and Bananas for breakfast is the first order of business on Friday.  Today’s agenda is filled with chores, including provisioning, laundry, a haircut for Pat and polishing the stainless steel deck hardware on Cutter Loose.  Later in the evening, we enjoy dinner at Blossom with buddy boats Island Spirit and Catspaw.

Charleston farmer's market

Charleston remains one of our favorite stops along the waterway.  Every visit to this town seems too short.  Time seems to have evaporated on this particular visit.  Tomorrow morning, we will pry ourselves away from this charming city.

Cutter Loose is on the move again, headed north on the ICW.  On Tuesday, the anchor is up in Beaufort in time to make the 9 AM opening of the Ladies Island swing bridge.  Our next major destination is Charleston.  Due to the tide schedule and slip availability at the Charleston Maritime Center, we decide to divide this 50 mile journey into two segments.

Tuesday’s leg takes us to a calm overnight anchorage at Church Creek.  The ICW follows the Beaufort River and the Coosaw River to a dredged cut known as the Ashpoo – Coosaw Cutoff.  At the narrow entrance to this cut, the tide has begun to rise with a vengeance.  The VHF has been crackling with reports of shallow water at this intersection.  Cutter Loose is swept sideways by the tidal current as she pokes her nose into this entrance, falling prey to the shallower water on the red side of the channel.  The knotmeter reads zero and the depthsounder reads five feet…sure signs that Cutter Loose is aground in the channel.  Thankfully, the bottom is sand and mud.  Better yet, the tide is rising.  With a little reverse thrust and aiming our stern towards the deeper water on the green side of the channel, Cutter Loose is floating free and on her way.  From here, it is an uneventful trip along the South Edisto River and the North Edisto River to our anchorage in Church Creek.

Elliott Cut

On Wednesday, the anchor is up in Church Creek at 9 AM.  Our course takes us along the Stono River to its intersection with Elliott Cut, a narrow dredged channel near Charleston where tidal currents can reach 5 knots.  A favorable current through the Cut pushes us towards the Wappoo Creek Bridge where we arrive well in advance of the noon opening.  By 12:30 PM, Cutter Loose is anchored in Charleston at the intersection of Wappoo Creek and the Ashley River, a popular overnight stop for cruisers transiting the waterway.

We will spend a few days in Charleston revisiting this attractive and interesting city.

Beaufort harbor

Today is a lay day in Beaufort, SC to rest and to explore this charming town.  Our sleep-deprived bodies demand a day off.  We respond by accumulating over 10 hours of sleep and spending a lazy morning aboard Cutter Loose.  By noon, our personal battery banks are recharged.  We are ready to resume travel and exploration. 

The afternoon is devoted to a walking tour of Beaufort.  This town has invested heavily in revitalizing its waterfront, including a promenade and a well-designed town green with many public gathering spots abutting the rear of Main Street restaurants and retail establishments.  As such, one can gain access to these businesses from either Main Street or the town green.  All of the restaurants along this row offer outdoor seating from which patrons engage in people-watching while absorbing views of the park and  the river beyond.

In the evening, we gather together with buddy boats Catspaw and Island Spirit at Breakwater to plan the days ahead and recount the highlights of our winter cruise.  Already, the discussion is trending towards cruising plans for next winter. 

Today is a significant calendar event in that it marks the one year anniversary of my retirement.   Without a doubt, our time on the water during the past year has been one of the most rewarding and unforgettable experiences of our lives.  We continue to learn, be more relaxed, visit new places and meet new and interesting people every day.

Cuthbert House

This week, relaxation gives way to purpose.  During the next four days, Cutter Loose will cover nearly 200 miles of Florida’s coastline.  Our objective is to reach the Florida/Georgia border by the weekend. 

Pounding into 25 knot northerlies on the ICW

On Monday morning, Cutter Loose is underway from Vero Beach City Marina at 8:30 AM.  Our destination for today is Cocoa Village, 44 nautical miles to the north.  The forecast calls for windy conditions this afternoon…remnants of a ‘noreaster exiting New England.  But this morning, the wind is calm in the Indian River from Vero Beach to the Wabasso Bridge.  True to the forecast, winds are northwest at 20 to 30 on the ICW at noon.  We increase the throttle to punch through the three foot wind driven waves on the bow.  With each wave, salt water sprays over the deck and dodger.  By the time we arrive at Cocoa Village at 4:45 PM, the wind is still gusting over 20 knots.  Cutter Loose is anchored south of Cocoa Bridge in the lee of two high rise condominium buildings.

The wind moderates on Tuesday as we motor north along the Space Coast.  From Cocoa Village, we continue our passage along the Indian River past the Kennedy Space Center and Titusville.  Upon transiting the Haulover Canal, Cutter Loose enters the ominous sounding Mosquito Lagoon and continues on to New Smyrna Beach and the Ponce De Leon Inlet to the Atlantic.   From here, the ICW follows the Halifax River to Daytona Beach, where Cutter Loose is anchored south of Memorial Bridge for the night.  Our distance traveled today is 57 nautical miles. 

Tall ship, Bounty, docked near the Bridge of Lions in St. Augustine

On Wednesday, we are underway from our anchorage in Daytona Beach in order to make the 7:30 AM opening of Memorial Bridge.  Our destination today is St. Augustine, a distance of 45 nautical miles.  Our course takes us north on the Halifax River past Marineland.  The ICW meanders alongside white beaches and sand bars at Matanzas Inlet.  Thankfully, we pass through this segment at high tide.  By 3 PM, Cutter Loose is on a mooring in the harbor just south of the Bridge of Lions in St. Augustine. The tall ship Bounty is docked at the St. Augustine City Marina.  We dinghy ashore to sample the paella at the Spanish restaurant Columbia in the historic district.

Leaving St. Augustine

Cutter Loose is underway on Thursday morning in time to make the 7:30 AM opening of the Bridge of Lions.  Our course takes us east towards the St. Augustine Inlet.  After a turn to the north, Cutter Loose enters the Tolomato River.  This is a particularly serene section of the ICW as the river meanders through marshes as we head towards Pine Island.  Once past Atlantic Beach and Jacksonville Beach, ICW traffic increases considerably as we approach the St. Johns River near Jacksonville.  The inflowing tide on the River thrusts Cutter Loose north into Sisters Creek at speeds of 8 knots. Further north, the ICW follows Sawpit Creek into Nassau Sound, an inlet to the Atlantic.  We enter the South Amelia River alongside Amelia Island and into Fernandina Beach where Cutter Loose is on a mooring at the Fernandina Harbor Marina.  Our journey today covers 49 nautical miles.

Friday is a lay day in Fernandina, our final day in Florida for this winter cruise.  The day is consumed with tasks including laundry, an engine oil change and fuel filter change, a visit to the local farmer’s market and a late afternoon viewing of The Hunger Games, an overrated movie in the now all-too-familiar survivor game genre.

Sisterships Etoile and Belle Poulle

During our stay, the French tall ships Etoile and Belle Poule are docked at Fernandina Harbor Marina.  They are each 115 feet in length overall. The public is invited aboard for an open house.  The crew has limited ability to speak the English language and we have even less familiarity with French.   We learned that the Etoile and the Belle Poule sailed from the Azores to Puerto Rico, a passage of 24 days.  After leaving Fernandina, these vessels will participate in tall ship events in Savannah, Charleston and New York.

Cutter Loose at her mooring, framed by the French flags of Etoile and Belle Poule

Fernandina is the staging area for the next leg of our journey north.  From here, we will enter the Atlantic Ocean through the St. Mary’s Inlet for an overnight sail to Port Royal Sound where we will rejoin the ICW near the town of Beaufort, SC.